Name Is Kanem

That coveted time of year has come and gone once again, with glamor and edge filling a multitude of New York streets and familiar faces prancing around in high style and couture, showing presence at designer runways and shows. That’s right, I’m talking about New York Fashion Week! 

It was an awe inspiring start to Fashion Month as designers, stylists, buyers, influencers and more all congregated at one of the leading fashion capitals of the world, where a gaggle of brands from 3.1 Phillip Lim to Willy Chavarria and even Thom Browne displayed their newest gems for the Fall/Winter seasons. In the midst of these fashion big hitters were a few notable names that truly stuck out to me as well, such as Bishme Cromartie, LaQuan Smith, Diotima and other black designers that made a splash with their creations, displays, and showcases as well. It was delightful to view high fashion through the lens of creatives that looked similar to myself, and the exceptional takes on styles of woven fabrics, corsetry, and soft tailored clothing truly set a tone for what’s to come later this year. 

Bishme Cromartie

The “Project Runway: All Stars” Season 20 winner showcased his collection at New York Fashion Week as well, utilizing fabrics traditionally used in outerwear as mediums for beautifully crafted sets and gowns. His contrast of structured sets and sharp, harsh cutouts mixed with the flounce and light natured gowns in his offerings showcases his prowess and range. He does an immaculate job of incorporating his own personal touches into classic outerwear styles, and the use of the extended collars as well as folded over dress panels work lovely together with the athleisure-like vibe overall. Whereas the only color utilized outside of black and white was red, the red pieces themselves were integral parts of the line with many standing out as showstoppers, and the black and white prints such as a check plaid, striated line gradient, and even a body motif offered modern and innovative takes on current staples and trends. His use of tulle manipulation is sweet, especially in the way he compliments the female form, and his utilization of skirt and dress cutouts which differ from the normal slit are so tastefully stylish. Needless to say I was enamored by his work, and with the likes of Michelle Williams already wearing his work I’m sure we’ll see even more notable names in Bishme Cromartie very soon.

Diotima

It’s all in the details of the garments when it comes to the Diotima FW24 collection for New York Fashion Week, and taking influence from her Jamaican heritage she delivers a stunning ensemble of looks. The combination of crochet techniques mixed with the cutout patterns that are expertly placed to highlight different parts of the body create the perfect day to night pieces. The fun use of fringe throughout the collection added a lovable appeal that would cater to those that like a little movement with their look, whereas other pieces full of silver-like floral appliques were so stunning they looked almost to be encrusted from afar. Not only are the earth and rustic tones of the collection modish, but they’re perfect for the impending return of western themed fashion as well, as seen by the FW24 Men’s collection from Louis Vuitton by Pharell & Beyonce’s new music offerings (I personally like 16 Carriages more. We all have our favorite). What I personally love about the clothing is that they are versatile, and the cutouts and crochet patterns allow for ventilation in the fall time while the woven material helps capture heat when layered in the winter. I hope to see these pieces in a few street style videos in the later months of the year. Absolutely love!

LaQuan Smith

LaQuan Smith’s offerings for FW 24’ was nothing short of sleek, sexy and sophisticated, which is not new for the brand. However what did stand out was Smith’s take on tailoring, which was conceptualized with more softer and malleable fabrics in the form of bodysuits, thigh baring skirt suits and relaxed wide leg trousers. Earth and maroon jewel tones were complemented by the sheen of the fabric used (possibly silk) and the silhouettes were body hugging and curve creating which will definitely appease the long standing LaQuan Smith customer. Those leaning into the recent “office siren” aesthetic would love his pieces, as they’re barely appropriate for any true corporate setting but still cater to the Y2K era with a more business-like twist. His men’s offerings were on trend as well, displaying relaxed dress slacks that flowed with movement as they walked and silk shirts that looked breathable and light alongside with lush outerwear pieces. Outside of the corp-core fashions the runway was also made way to form-fitting dresses, gold gowns and skirts made of metal platelets, and cut-outs in every which way imaginable. 

Romeo Hunte

The mixed use of fabrications, construction techniques, and pops of bright colors like rustic oranges and saturated citrines really set the tone for a stylish casual collection with bold dressier options as well. Much like the shows previously mentioned, the outerwear was delightful to gawk at, with my personal favorites being black leather trench with what looks to be a block motif & a colorful concoction of felt-like balls that make up the entirety of the garment. The jacket is a lot, but it’s also a perfect statement piece for when its colder and pallets are more neutral. Double breasted tailored options included an oversized pinstripe, velvets and a chrome-like silver number, while puff skirts were played with on dresses and with an intriguing leather sweatshirt. The coinpurse detail on a select few looks were intriguing as well and something I hope we get to see incorporated in different ways with his later work. His presentation was enjoyable and excelled at catering to multiple crowds. I often found myself putting together quick 10 second outfits with the pieces I enjoyed, and I’m sure I wasn’t the only one either!

Sergio Hudson

Timeless, bold and corseted to the GAWDS is how I would describe Sergio Hudson’s FW 24’ collection. Inspired by the 70’s, Hudson effortlessly combines denims and leathers with cinched waists and classic silhouettes while incorporating an array of colors appealing to the eye, such as emeralds, orchids and mustard yellows. Through the use of belts, corsets and expert tailoring to accentuate the feminine form, he beautifully captures a confident woman; a powerful woman; a leading woman if you will; and does a great job at styling her with rich outerwear pieces. Between the inclusion of tailored wear and double breasted enclosures, Hudson’s woman is just as much business savvy as she is poised and posh, with offerings that would be absolutely perfect for fictional characters Olivia Pope or Annalise Keating. Overall a stunning showing from Sergio Hudson, and one that I’m sure we will see much more of in the future on some of our favorite celebrities.