With the summer heat starting to dwindle and fall slowly descending upon us, I thought it would be a good idea to cover just a few collections from Black-Founded brands that were able to showcase their Spring/Summer ’25 runway shows during fashion week in Milan & Paris. These designers and/or creative directors, though few in number, were able to set the fashion mediascape and interweb ablaze and for good reason. Whether paying homage to great artists that came before, pointing fingers at the current political climate, or simply delivering masterful craftmanship and innovative designs, the designers listed all have a unique perspective to offer to the current industry, and one that set’s them apart from the herd. So without further ado, lets dig into these runways!
The British designer Martine Rose debuted her first show during Milan Fashion Week with the originative collection creating quite the stir online and within the fashion sphere, and rightfully so. The ‘deconstruction to reconstruction’ feel of the runway presentation was enthralling, and the noticeably enlarged prosthetics and hip length wigs on the models showed a clear departure from conventional and customary. A mix of moto gear mashups and business casual styles consisted of leather, denim and satins, with many of the jackets skewing on the oversized and/or cropped end and garments that were stitched, tied or meshed to stay together. Tailoring was often shoulder defining, straight legged and incorporated latex panels on pants in a manner reminiscent of chaps. Prints came in the form of splatter-like blotches on suits, stripes on shirts and a few plaids as well. I loved the deep, mossy green double-breasted number, though the plaid button up with rope woven detailing on the sleeves was also gaggle worthy in my opinion. Other pieces to make note of were two-piece track suits, outerwear that skewed on the athletic side and wide legged printed denim. The wide legged agenda continues! The accessories consisted of trucker hats and belts smartly labeled “ROSE” & “LOCAL HERO”, fishnet black socks that sat on the calves (I LOVE), and bag offerings of the knit and shoulder variety. We also were able to grab a look at the footwear which consisted of square toes, snake & gator (?) skins, Clarks and potentially a new Nike collaboration. Given Martine’s history with Clarks & Nike (She has worked with both brands extensively and still does currently), I was not surprised to see the two entities make an appearance in her showing and honestly found their pieces to be some of the most intriguing as a shoe lover myself.
Martine Rose has truly set herself apart by staying true to her brand’s ethos whilst reimagining the relationship between sportswear and sartorial fashion. She continues to not only push the envelope but in doing so amasses a genuine following and audience that not only enjoys her work but her view as an artist as well. The brand’s SS25 presentation was indeed a show, one that has captured the hearts of many fashion lovers worldwide and one that I would have loved to have seen in person.
Paying homage to Trinidadian artist’s Althea McNish’s life and work, Wales Bonner’s offerings for SS25 Paris Fashion Week was just as much intimate as it was effortless, soft spoken and clean as reported by Hypebeast. As the first textile designer of Afro-Caribbean heritage from Great Britain to receive international recognition, Althea McNish has played a pivotal role not only within the fashion industry but in designer Grace Wale Bonner’s life as well. As such, the collection captures key design elements, such as the floral patterns that point to McNish’s fondness of designs based in nature, whilst still maintaining the Wales Bonner aesthetic of expertly combining tailored and athleisure styles that speaks to fans and consumers of the brand. Adidas Originals by Wales Bonner sportswear was present on the runway in the form of active sets, swimwear, and even sequined footwear (The two entities have collaboration history), whilst more sartorial offerings such as blazers, suits and trenches were also showcased. Playfulness with materials was on the menu heavily for this collection, mixing leathers, mesh, knits, denim and more. Mesh came down the runway in different sizes and cuts and was layered under tailored jackets and more sartorial looks, whilst thin, lightweight jumpers were layered over button ups. Leather was conceptualized into capris (which I personally LOVED), bottoms for his and hers, as well as outerwear that was juxtaposed with the aforementioned trunks. Shorts, some of which came in matching sets, were airy and loose which is perfect for the hotter months in Spring/Summer. When it comes to color and design, pops of crimson hues, floral prints and horizontal stripes can be seen throughout the SS25 showing; however, outside of these the base of the collection was muted to blacks, whites and creams. In my opinion this speaks to the timelessness of her designs and their flexibility, as many pieces shown can easily transition from day to night time wear. The jewel encrusted and layered two-piece skirt set, the cream trench with black shorts and mesh undershirt, and the two-piece suit with the extended body are all looks that caught my eye as ogle worthy splurges.
It’s no surprise that the Wales Bronner brand continues to prosper within the fashion climate and given the recent runway for SS25 I’m sure we will continue to see more magic come from the British-Jamaican designer.
I didn’t have A$AP Rocky showing a SS25 collection during Paris Fashion Week on my bingo card, but honestly…I’m not mad at it at all. The Harlem born, critically acclaimed, highly stylish rapper made his debut with AWGE on the Parisian runways with a collection titled “American Sabotage”, in which the creative director skillfully broadcasted not only the brand ethos but his own “ghetto expressionism” as well. Centered around political satire (as it was so plainly stated on one of the looks) and his own experiences growing up impoverished, the looks are all layered with details & meaning that shows the creative’s viewpoint of the current climate in regards to politics, social issues, and fashion itself. Partner in stylish crime and soon-to-be-mother again Rihanna was also in attendance and looked effortlessly cool in an AWGE look, wearing a tank dress under an oxblood, fur lined bomber with what looked to be 2 or 3 jackets layered around the hip area and finished off with white pumps with buckle detailing that wrapped around the ankles. It was the perfect appetizer for what was to come, as the show itself did not disappoint either. Anything that could be distressed was, including baseball caps, denim jeans and skirts, elongated shirts and even face masks. Bandanas could be seen throughout the collection, usually tucked under hats, and bottoms were visibly stacked on top of each other including dress pants (My personal favorite). The more tailored looks skewed on the ‘office siren’/’corporate casual’ end of sartorial fashion, which means more than likely you won’t see those looks in the office anytime soon. A plethora of bomber jackets reminiscent of Ms. Fenty’s also graced the runway, along with Ray-ban eyewear and PUMA footwear that was definitely eye-catching. Statements such as “DON’T BE DUMB” and “POLITICAL SATIRE” were strewn across several garments, whilst the creative house AWGE logo and “AMERICAN SABOTAGE” were prominently placed on looks and continued to remind everyone why they were there.
What stood out to me most about the collection was A$AP’s choice of clothing, styling of the looks, and garment modifications that remind me of how many within the urban wear fashion scene dress currently, especially in the US. People who, like him in his earlier years, may be impoverished or not as well off, but still find a way to create statements with their looks and fashionably challenge the status quo. His choice of including bandanas and stacking bottoms in a way that almost looks like sagging also resonates because these same symbols are used against us negatively as black people are called “ghetto”, “ratchet”, and so much more, only to be regurgitated by luxury houses at absurd price points and gentrified by those at the top of the of the fashion food chain. Satire indeed. AWGE’s debut collection was just as interesting and thought provoking as it was fashionably rebellious and for that, I am thankful. It shows that A$AP and the rest of AWGE are serious about taking on the industry and honestly I cannot wait to see what more they produce in the future to come.
Hanifa (SS24 / Resort 24 Website Launch)
!EXTRA! Though not presented on a runway, I would be remiss to not cover Hanifa’s SS24 and Resort ‘24 collection which launched on their website June 29th and August 9th respectively, as the brand continues to grow and cater towards women of all shapes and sizes with beautifully crafted designs. Speaking to the SS24 collection, the looks consist of bold blues, coral pinks, and shades of citrines that don’t stray far from the Hanifa brand. One thing I’ve loved about their work thus far is their use of ruching techniques, knitting techniques, as well as symmetry that creates shapes and lines along the garments to accentuate a woman’s curves and physique, and this collection is no different. The ‘Clarise‘ knit maxi dress is fully ribbed and complete with a cutout that draws attention to the hips while giving the illusion of a smaller waist, whereas the ‘Sarai’ knit maxi dress is much more subtle in the use of lines to draw in the waist and stomach while complimenting the full female form. For those opting out of dresses, the SS24 collection also offers two piece sets as well, with floral embellishments, ribbed knitting per the brands signature style, and ruffles also. Personally I love the ‘Alara‘ dress due to the ruche detailing around the hips and the simplistic sexiness the look exudes; the ‘Carmen’ knit dress which is daring with a side cutout that falls right on the waist and high-low skirt that’s lower on the sides of the legs and gradually becomes higher as you near the pelvis region; and the ‘Maylah’ gown which is in a gorgeous orange satin material and corseted to cinch the waist and create voluminous “hips” on the sides. Their resort collection also captured many hearts with sequined knits and fringe also. The ‘Mia’ and ‘Cassandra’ frocks immediately caught my eye as the tiers of knit fringe would be perfect in movement, such as for a night out dancing, whereas the lightweight, midriff exposing ‘Jasmine’ gown would be perfect for a summer dinner date or catching flicks by the beachside. Hanifa also included a bikini set as well as a cover-up option in the form of an ombre robe in this collection, and those looking to indulge in maxi options can do so with their ombre ‘Samira‘ dress or their airy ‘Dalila’ skirt in my favorite color. Since 2020 the brand has been on the radar of many fashion lovers such as myself, and if anything their recent offerings show that they’ll be present in the industry for quite a while. Be sure to check out the Hanifa website let me know if you splurged on anything!
Name Is Kanem 
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