Black on The Runway: New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025

Okay so I’ve had a minute. It’s been some time. I’ve digested all the runways I need to, picked apart every seam and stitch, and glittered and gleamed with excitement at many looks as well. Fashion Month definitely had me on my toes to say the least, but I will say one of the running murmurs is that even the fashion industry is feeling the hit in terms of the current economy, with luxury brands seeing a slow down in growth and sales, it’s also being annotated that runways look less avant-garde and more marketable and wearing fashions. It’s noted that a few major fashion houses either presented their collection with no creative director at the helm, or have already presented and now have lost their creative director afterwards. Feels like I’m watching a draft to be honest. New York fashion week was a cute starter or appetizer to nibble on but honestly left a bit to be desired overall, personally. I will say there were a lot of moments and designers that stood out to me amongst the rest, but again overall it was very…demure. London + Milan we’re like main course meals for me. I devoured and I ate, and I ate, and I ate till I couldn’t anymore. I can’t wait until I get to Tolu Coker in particular, because from the garments themselves to the runway design, it was absolutely delicious! And then there was Paris. Paris was a beautifully thin slice of cheesecake, a perfect dessert to end it off. Not too much but just enough to satisfy the sweet tooth. Y’know? What I will say though is that I enjoyed the creativity where it thrived in some collections and others I loved for the sheer glamour and charm. There were lots of trends to take in and notable highlights in menswear and sartorial styling, which is interesting given the most recent news. Not sure what I mean? Just check out my post on the latest MET exhibit to be announced for May of next year.

With all that being said, there was a plethora of black designers that showcased their designs, so let’s dig in!

A. Potts

A. Potts is a newly discovered and exciting name on my list of designers to watch, as the brand, created by Aaron Potts, creates unisex clothing and wearable pieces that focus on versatility. With a background in designing for notable names such as Anne Klein, Victoria’s Secret, and Escada to name a few, I’m surprised if anything that I haven’t heard of the brand sooner. Going through Potter’s SS25 offerings my excitement only grew as I saw the numerous denim looks that crossed my screen, effortless yet striking to the eye. Airy, oversized, and full of patchwork detail that is more alluring than offensive. This soon gave way to sand and chocolate-colored fits that looked perfect for everyday occasions and prints in earth-toned tie-dyes and snakeskin that graced dresses and jumpsuits. His use of blue in the majority of the collection continued with a beautiful, languid skirt, a fringed frock, and bright blue, high glitz options in a sequined one-piece and a metallic two-piece made of what seemed to be lamé. The collection as a whole offered quite a bit for a range of tastes, whether you are someone who prefers minimalistic styling or going full-on balls to the wall. It’s a testament to the brand’s core, which is showcasing pieces that can be mixed and matched with others seamlessly while still incorporating high-end elements. Overall I was giddy to not only learn of a new designer, but one that speaks a bit to my style as well, and his SS25 was no disappointment. One look that struck a melodious chord with me in the collection was a two-piece, perforated white set with cap sleeves on the top and lightweight joggers that hit the ankle. A perfect look for the warmer climate down here in the south, especially during the summer months. Other personal favorites include a beautiful white hat encased in tulle as well as a patchwork denim kimono that would look absolutely perfect in my closet.

Diotima

Rachel Scott this time around did her big one of creating timeless and sellable pieces while showcasing imaginative design through elements familiar to her and her brand, Diotima. Capturing femininity through various rich knits in a mineral color palette full of gradients and textures, Diotima’s SS25 offerings can best be likened to dust: fine yet breezy, soft to the touch, and adaptable to the occasion. The use of crochets continues to see evolution this time around whilst combining with finely woven tops and what looks to be linen or cotton sets of white & black that feel light and effortless for the everyday consumer. In particular, a black look with yellow and white knit detailing that overlaid the top, paired with black slacks lined with beaded fringe was delicate and sweet, to say the least. Touches of Scott’s whimsy can be seen through small additions to some looks, such as lace, fringe (as previously mentioned), and large paillettes that decorate various bottoms and frocks in the collection. Speaking of paillettes, Diotima’s use of the design element to line a skirt and dress option in the collection is bold and bursting with personality, and as such requires a level of confidence to pull off. Fringe is also used as an extension and addition, with a granite and clay striped button-up and pants set that captures my eye personally and exudes a cool factor that would be perfect for a high fashion airport look or gallivanting through the Midtown streets of Atlanta. Lace also makes an appearance, though not as prominent as the broderie anglaise that is used on structured but soft-angled vest options and bottoms in the form of leaves. The use of this technique on a bandana, specifically in red, was absolutely lovely and the perfect accessory for someone like me who doesn’t want to spend too much time on their hair before running errands. The collection as a whole feels fresh yet refined, with hints of playfulness and ease that allow for a wide range of people to partake in and hopefully enjoy.

LaQuan Smith

LaQuan Smith’s ability to not only accentuate but play off of the human body when designing is unmatched, in my opinion, and his SS25 collection was no different in keeping that standard. This time around the designer continues his utilization of sheer fabrics and lace to provide a light and subtle curtain between the body and looking eyes whilst incorporating new patterns and silhouettes in new offerings as well. Sensual & sexy, Smith’s newest iterations of his iconic bodysuits and body-hugging dresses come equipped with cutouts of various forms and sizes that lay bare the stomach and/or clavicles, something that I feel will be a huge hit amongst influencers and celebrities alike during the warmer months. Juxtaposed with these looks were more structural and casual moments, particularly a men’s suit offering a light oat color paired with an orange patterned chiffon top, as well as more wispy outfits full of movement and bounce, such as a blush pink sheer option with asymmetrical sleeves and layered swaths of fabric that flowed from the arms, giving the look a fae-like feeling. Though the many pops of chartreuse stood out within the collection, what personally caught my attention, more so than anything, were the blue denim printed looks that were not only modern but versatile. Between the ruched swimwear and dresses to the full feather coats and even a few pieces full of sequins, silver chains, and sheen, the collection has plenty of options for the club hoppers and day drinkers to get done up and feel confident in. It’s these pieces, along with the staples of Smith’s, that speak to the ethos of the brand and continue to draw in customers and onlookers alike because, let’s be real, LaQuan Smith isn’t for the faint of heart: It’s for those looking to turn heads, willing to step out on a limb, and undoubtedly show a few limbs a well.

Off-White

Many New York fashion lovers, enthusiasts, and scholars witnessed a treat during NYFW, as Off-White held its first-ever fashion show in the sprawling metropolis that cements the United States as a power player within the industry. Headed by Creative Director Ib Kamara, the SS25 RTW collection that was aptly named “DUTY-FREE” was showcased in Brooklyn and inspired by the late founder Virgil Abloh’s country of Ghana. The product of this innovation was unconventional sportswear, with elements of sleekness and utility incorporated to add both interesting functionality and a bit of appeal. Track jackets were body-conforming, with boning to nip in the waist and pieces of material that fell away at the bottom on the sides, revealing the tiniest amount of the hip bones. Most of these looks were completed with flowing, sheer skirts or longer-than-normal tights that covered the heel and felt cool yet simple. Bodysuits with deep plunging necklines and bottoms adorned with beads were also on the menu and in full effect for the brand. Again, just the right amount of intrigue with hints of sex appeal. Speaking of sex, belts with the word “SEX” could be seen on a few of the male models, with the X being substituted for the brand’s logo. Cheeky if I do say so myself. Menswear also included fallaway pieces of fabric similar to that of the women’s designs. However, these pieces were usually attached by a zipper and were actual pockets that could be used, as seen specifically on a two-piece, dusted mocha, puffer vest, and pants combo that was worn with a sleeveless shirt underneath. Kamara played with denim a bit this season as well, as distressed looks came in a pomegranate & mint color, and full fits of different lighter and darker washes made appearances. It was here, along with the use of patterns such as a brown plaid and a salmon-infused camo, that I thought the Creative Director stepped out of the basic color palette and took more design risks, though some paid off more than others in my opinion. A charming ode to the home that birthed one of the greatest fashion minds of the 21st century, Kamara was able to produce refined sportswear for the 2025 Off-White customer and still include design elements that spark interest for what’s to come in the future for the brand post-Abloh’s reign.

Sergio Hudson

Pretty pale tones and perfectly plush purples, pinks, and yellows best describe Sergio Hudson’s SS25. Inspired by the 1960s movie Valley of the Dolls, the collection features an array of looks that, though true to the Hudson brand, take a more moderate approach to evening wear and sharp-looking styles. Suits with oversized peak lapels can be seen on offerings in a cloud-like ivory and vibrant fuchsia colorway, paired with rich silk button-ups underneath, whereas later in the collection a sweet daisy yellow version paired with a matching corset hits the runway and immediately becomes a favorite of mine. Something about the color as well as the wide-leg pants and oversized jacket and lapels scream “brunch in Potomac”, and quite frankly, I love it. Dresses this time around are fairly simple in nature with the emphasis more so on materialization rather than construction as the knit fabrics look expensive and soft to the touch. Where Hudson does take steps outside of the box, he does so by including a double-breasted mint green dress that is just as much chic as it is adorable and several iterations of sequin gowns that would be perfect for a night out in town or for special events, such as New Year’s, which is right around the corner. Speaking of sequins, this collection includes several offerings for men as well, including a lovely yellow look with a sequined top and simple dress pants, as well as a stone grey pinstripe suit paired with a top and a handkerchief of the same color. The collection as a whole is versatile in that the styles showcased can be worn more casually or dressed up but are still perfect for the hotter seasons, with short suits and tweed options that allow the wearer to show off their long legs, or options that completely envelope the legs in wide leg pants (a trend I don’t see going away anytime soon) but allow the arms to be exposed instead. Overall the collection is cute, easy to digest, and spot-on for the Sergio Hudson client, who is a self-assured modern woman with tastes in sartorial styles.

Theophilio

Edvin Thompson continues to not only show up for NYFW but show out as well, and I’m here for it all. For SS25, Theophilio presented a mashup of effortless styles that could cater to the most tame of customers, as well as more showy and garish offerings that would be sure to turn heads and would require the utmost of confidence to wear. The collection boasts a slew of silk styles, including an oversized black suit that would be lovely in the hotter months and a more tailored white silk version with a matching shirt that flowed with ease. Sequins were on the menu heavy for this collection with one style in particular catching my eye as it is a simple sequined tank and pants in an ivory white that ever so slightly outlines the model’s body, but looks serous like liquid on the skin. The look was a personal favorite of mine as I could easily see myself wearing it on vacation in the Bahamas or in Cancun while sipping a margarita, with the many sequins glistening under the rays of the sun. When it came to prints, the collection did not hold back, with breezy cheetah print options and picture-printed looks on a halter cowl-neck mini dress and men’s top following suit. These, however, did not hit like the graffiti style “THEOPHILIO” printed outfits that followed after, as the fusion of colors was exciting and riveting, to say the least. More sequences can be seen in a beautiful, deep eggplant purple, Emerald City green, and soft black as well. The collection had a bit of a tongue-in-cheek moment as well, as the swimwear styles, yet again covered in sequins, also had the “Have a Nice Day” smiley face plastered all over. It was playful and fun, something that many designers seem to stray away from when presenting during NYFW, but it was much appreciated as well. Overall the collection had a wide range of looks in terms of prints and patterns, from the more modest and simple pieces that seemed undemanding to style, to the more outlandish and loud ones that made statements all on their own. It was enjoyable to see and hopefully, in the future, this bright spot of creativity continues to grow with further collections.